Ireland: Ring of Kerry

I have to start this section with a caveat: we had amazing weather! Almost every day. But a week in the small town of Waterville, County Kerry, Ireland showed us the best of everything this country had to offer. It all started with the people. Friendly. Funny. Humble. Passion for life. Inquisitive. Gossipy. I loved them all. We would go to a pub and, after just a few minutes, you were engaged with your neighbors on both sides covering every topic imaginable. And every conversation usually involved a drink which was usually a pint of Guinness.

We chose Waterville because a golf event was the focus of our trip, but there was so much more than golf to experience and enjoy. Here’s a quick rundown:

Where to Stay

There are a number of options in Waterville. You can go fancy (Lodge at Hog’s Head). You can stay in town (Draper’s Arms). You can go beach (Smugglers). Or you can go perfect (Waterville House).

The Waterville House is one of the greatest places I’ve ever stayed. On the water with stunning views. One of the most legendary fly-fishing rivers in Ireland running right through the property. The best traditional Irish breakfast I’ve ever had. A private driving range, short game practice area, and putting green on the property. Walking distance to town. An amazing lounge to enjoy a night cap. But, again, it comes down to the people. Christine and Michael are the most incredible hosts: kind, talented, attentive, knowledgeable, and just a pleasure to spend time with.

Eating

I have to admit that I had pretty low expectations for the food on this trip. I was massively surprised. The Irish breakfast at Waterville House was the best way to start every day with eggs, Irish bacon, sausages, black pudding, white pudding, and an oven-roasted tomato. The seafood was incredibly fresh and always prepared deliciously. Here are our favorite spots:

The Lobster Bar: our favorite; new chef is amazing; a casual pub-like environment serving excellent tradition and refined far
McCarthy’s Bar: the best lunch spot in a stunning room at Hog’s Head clubhouse; sit at the bar and be sure to drink
Smugglers Inn: great views and even better food at this little seafood spot right on the beach
Lough Currane: the spot for fine dining in Waterville; amazing room, views, wine list, food, etc
Dooley’s: great bar, fun vibe, and delicious steaks
1889 Bar: the best 19th hole (at the Waterville Links) for drink and food
Charlie’s: good menu and very solid food

Drinking

Two questions are paramount when drinking in Ireland. Where to drink? And, what to drink. We loved hanging with the locals and the best drinking pub in Waterville, The Villa. Dan runs the front bar with a twinkle in his eye and the locals almost behave. Really fun. We also enjoyed McCarthy’s for an afternoon drink and snack.

What to drink? Guinness, of course. But some of the local Irish Whiskey’s were tremendous (see below). Also some good local gins. And ciders. And…

Golf

There is no finer region in the world for golf. Rain or shine, gusting wind or furious wind, the courses in County Kerry and the surrounding areas are hard to beat.

Waterville Links was my absolute favorite…maybe of all courses in my life. Challenging course, stunning views, wild hares, rich history, wonderful caddies…the list goes on and on. From “The Mass Hole” to the lookout point from the rear tees on 17, it doesn’t get any better. Here are just a few shots:

I would also highly recommend Hog’s Head. It tips the scale for luxury and perfection. As I’ve mentioned, the lodge is fantastic, the bar and restaurants are incredible, the clubhouse is stunning, the team is awesome, and the golf course is tremendous. Did I find enough good adjectives? You get used to the helicopters landing and leaving, shuttling members to other nearby courses. It’s a private club, but they do offer some tee times to the public so definitely give it a try.

We didn’t get a full golf trip in, but this was our original list, flying into Shannon and departing from Cork:

Sights

There are a bunch of small towns to explore and some crazy roads to drive. I recommend hiring a driver, which is easier and much safer than driving yourself, and will give you more flexibility than taking a tour on a bus.

Driving the Ring of Kerry takes a full day but there are many places to explore. You can also drive the Skellig Ring.

Take a hike on Valentia Island.

If you can handle the seas on a small boat, head out to the Skellig Islands (photo below). Definitely try to get one of the boats that stops at the island so you can get out and take the hike (if you are not afraid of heights).

Conclusion

I cannot wait to return…regularly. Loved it here.